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Find Beauty, Tranquility & Wonder in Alpena, Michigan

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Our family loves to adventure to new places together, especially in our home state of Michigan. We live in Traverse City, and as we looked at a map, we noticed that we tend to stay on the west side of the state.

To try something new, we ventured to the Northeastern corner of the Lower Peninsula. Our family decided the nature paradise of the Alpena area would be the perfect place for our latest adventure. 

A big thank you to Visit Alpena for partnering with the Awesome Mitten and hosting our family for this trip. We couldn’t be more grateful for their incredible aid in planning the perfect exploration!

A woman and her kids underneath a sign reading "45th Parallel Halfway Between Equator & North Pole
We stopped by this exciting landmark on our way into Alpena! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Alpena’s History & New Energy

When I took a look at the map of Michigan, Alpena stands out as it sits right on Thunder Bay – one of the largest bays of Lake Huron. It’s an old town, with a history dating back to the 1840s. Its roots are deep and old stories are passed down through many generations. 

Back in the early 1900s, Alpena was known for its limestone quarries and lumber production, along with its role in the automobile industry. However, most fascinating to our family was the concentrated number of shipwrecks that lay in Thunder Bay. In the early 1900s, with industry booming, the town flourished. 

Much of the historic industry of Alpena has since closed, making way for new energy to be brought to town. As we drove into Alpena, we noticed that the downtown has recently undergone a colorful upgrade! 

While maintaining a historic street-side appeal, the backs of most of the downtown buildings are covered in gorgeous murals. The side alleyways invite you to wonder at the inspiring stories told through the paintings. Each piece holds special meaning to this town and tells a part of its history. 

Painted murals lining the streets of Alpena
Beautiful murals lined the historic buildings and alleys of the Alpena’s downtown. | photo by Kristi Murphy

Accommodations at Holiday Inn Express & Suites

Our first stop was to check into our hotel – the beautiful and well-maintained Holiday Inn Express & Suites. It sat right on the canal that leads out to Thunder Bay with the Alpena Bi-Path accessible right out its doors. This paved walking and biking path runs the length of the town, making Alpena an extremely bikeable city.

The Holiday Inn truly is the perfect place for a “home base” on this trip, within walking distance of Alpena’s historic downtown district. The kids were thrilled there was a pool for swimming and we took immediate advantage of the 24/7 tea and coffee bar. The staff was friendly and the rooms were clean and modern. 

A man's face painted on a wall with a seating area.
The waiting area at the Red Brick Tap & Barrel was cozy and warm! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Red Brick Tap & Barrel’s Inviting Atmosphere

We decided on Red Brick Tap & Barrel for dinner, which was only a quick two-block walk from the hotel. As we entered, we were pleasantly surprised at the lively atmosphere of this establishment. For a small town, it was obvious this was a local’s favorite for a Friday night. 

The restaurant is homey, yet sleek, with wood beams along the ceiling and bricks covering its walls. A large handcrafted bar centers the main room with cozy booths and tables found in the side room. 

We had a short wait and they directed our family back to a seating area near the back while we waited. There we found leather chairs to relax in, with darts and old-school Pacman to play. Our kids were delighted at these games.

We were seated and quickly ordered several staple appetizers – cheese curds and pretzel bites. Both of these were done in a unique way – the cheese curds had lighter-than-air breading, and the pretzel bites were served with a delicious raspberry jam and mustard. This was a surprisingly delightful combination. 

Our main courses were equally as delicious – my son had a short rib pasta bowl, which we considered the stand-out of our meal. My husband tried the blackened salmon, complete with habanero raspberry sauce and perfectly cooked broccolini. 

Being beer lovers, we were more than happy with their experiential beer menu – featuring something for everyone. The kids begged for dessert, but it was getting late. As a compromise, we agreed to order a huge slice of apple crumb cake to enjoy while watching the NBA Playoffs from our hotel beds. 

A girl and a mom sitting on an anchor in front of a bridge.
All around Alpena, we found evidence of its Great Lakes roots! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Alpena: A Town That Inspires Wonder

As we walked back to the hotel, I was inspired by this town reclaiming itself. I could tell the effort being put in by many local shops to revitalize the downtown area and make a way for a new story to be told. This town wasn’t trying to be anything other than itself – and that’s a beautiful thing. 

As I thought about the weekend ahead, I decided I would make sure to name the small things on this trip- to invite Alpena to show me its own unique wonder and to savor that. 

Already, I gave thanks for the silly things at dinner; like watching my son learn how to master a Rubix cube or how my daughter drew me the life cycle of a tree. How my husband still makes me laugh after 15 years and how it feels to walk through a new town at night. 

A picture of a breakfast pizza on a table.
I’m still dreaming of the breakfast pizza at JJ’s in downtown Alpena! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Leisurely Breakfast at JJ’s Steak & Pizza

In the morning, we awoke to a deep fog covering the town – adding a layer to the mystery of its history. After lounging in bed with cartoons and fresh coffee, we ventured a few blocks to JJ’s Steak & Pizza for a leisurely breakfast. 

I love that each restaurant in town has its own identity, and JJ’s proved to be no different. The restaurant immediately fascinated my children, as they noticed the many species of taxidermy animals lining the walls. Each animal had a name and some even wore sports jerseys or held a football. I love a place that isn’t too serious – and JJ’s was just that. 

The menu featured omelets, fluffy pancakes, steak & eggs, and mouth-watering breakfast pizza. I ordered a bacon and veggie omelet, while the rest decided to share a breakfast pizza.

We hit the jackpot with our choices – surprised at the quality of the fresh veggies and homemade bread. The pizza crust was one of the best we’ve had, and the toppings were in perfect ratio with the gravy sauce. I bet their regular pizza would be outstanding. With our bellies full, we were ready to set out.

A museum's old ship artifact.
We loved reading about all the old equipment found on historic boats at the Maritime Heritage Center! | photo by Kristi Murphy

The Magic of Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center

Since the day held so much fog, we decided to structure our day around several of the area’s museums. We started with the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center, located conveniently close to downtown. 

I knew that Thunder Bay held so many stories of Alpena, but I was completely unprepared for the vast amount of history found at the museum. This is a history lover’s dream! With multiple levels and experiences to explore, you could easily spend hours here. 

The upstairs displays featured the history of the area’s shipwrecks, detailing how the ships were built and what they were used for. The main floor’s main attraction was a hand-built ship display. You could enter the ship to see how captains slept and where they cooked their meals. 

On the upper deck, lights flashed and wind blew, making it feel like a real storm was coming. My kids loved every second of it. Venturing further into the back area, we found rooms full of artifacts and treasures that had been uncovered in Thunder Bay. 

To top it all off, there is a kids’ play area with a slide and tunnels, as well as a movie theater where more history can be seen. Outside of the museum, there is a short walking trail that you can take to a little island, giving more facts about the ships and industry.

A man and woman cheers with their beer.
Another first for us on this trip-trying Polish beer! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Unique Cuisine at the Old Polish Corner

As we wrapped up our first experience of the day, we felt our stomachs rumble. For a restaurant option we don’t have back home, we chose The Old Polish Corner for lunch. I wasn’t sure what to expect, as I can’t say I’ve had a ton of Polish cuisine. 

The whole restaurant made me feel like I was actually in another country- the red & white décor and music set the scene. We ordered some Polish meats and cheese to start, along with a few traditional meals to share. 

The meats were delectable and truly unique, and my Polish beer (a Zywiec) was tasty. The standout of our meal with the kielbasa and kluski noodles. It was true comfort food- one I’ll be craving in deep winter days. 

Buildings with a gravel dirt pit and signs.
We loved digging for fossils at the Besser Museum! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Inviting Awe at the Besser Planetarium and Museum

The day was still hazy, so we trekked a few miles to another part of town to see what the Besser Planetarium and Museum had to offer. While I knew the planetarium portion would be amazing, I am happy to report that this place has more than just that. 

My kids wandered through the “old” town halls and a lumber shop, completed a scavenger hunt, and then headed outside to do a real fossil dig and explore a few old fishing boats. While the opposite side of the state is known for Petoskey stones and Leland blue, this area’s landscape is dotted with fossils that you must search out – an adventure in and of itself!

Meanwhile, I wandered the halls, finding simplicity and joy in the collection of leaves that covered the walls. I named this one of my small wonders of the weekend- treasuring each shape and color. 

Finally, we entered the Planetarium and spent thirty minutes drifting through space and learning about the beginnings of our planet. It set my mind ablaze with facts, reinstating that I am just one small human in this vast, mysterious solar system. 

Two kids faces poking through an astronaut sign.
The Besser Museum is known for its planetarium, and our kids loved learning about space! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Simply Joys at Bayview Park

After our museum visit, we decided to run out some of our energy at the beautiful Bayview Park, which sits right on Thunder Bay. I could see how in the summer this would make an ideal picnic spot, as the kids could play, and we could watch the boats come and go together. 

Today, I simply sat on a bench, watching my children giggle as my husband spun them on the old-school merry-go-round. After a million dizzy rides, we walked towards town along the bay.

A wall of coffee beans.
Cabin Creek smelled like heaven with all their flavored roasts! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Welcoming Vibes at Cabin Creek Coffee

As the fog still enveloped the town, we made our way to Cabin Creek Coffee for a late afternoon “pick-me-up”. This cozy corner coffee shop smelled amazing – instantly welcoming you into its arms with the aroma of fresh ground coffee hanging in the air. We tried a variety of drinks – from one of their signature lattes to an iced mocha and a fresh fruit smoothie. 

To top things off, my son ordered a blueberry muffin, one of his favorite comfort foods. He quickly declared this muffin to be deserving of an award and as I reached over for a taste, I had to agree. All of our drinks boasted fresh ingredients and the coffee was strong and delicious. 

A girl standing in front of a wall painted as a butterfly.
Layla loved walking the streets of colorful downtown Alpena. | photo by Kristi Murphy

An Afternoon in Downtown Alpena’s Perfectly Curated Shops

Afterward, my daughter and I popped into the downtown’s many shops. Each one was perfectly curated with Michigan-made goods, handcrafted candles and mugs, and local art.

There was a nice variety of stores for this small town- Colburn Outfitters, which provided excellent gear; a children’s shop, named Sweet Baby James; and even a shop that carries unique gifts with an intimate bar in the back for a cocktail, called the Rusty Petunia

I loved this idea of using a store for multi-purposes and if I had more time I would have sat with a glass of wine, enjoying the atmosphere.

Two flights of beer sit on top of a wooden table.
The golden-hued beer flights at Austin Brothers were our favorite of the weekend! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Awesome Beers at Austin Brothers Brewing Company

After a quick swim at our hotel, our bellies signaled it was time for dinner. Since we are beer enthusiasts, we decided on Austin Brothers Brewing Company.

The exterior of this building was breathtaking with a large outdoor area for lounging and game playing in the back. The inside was warm and casual, vibrant with people and conversation. 

I ordered a flight of all IPAs, while my husband tried several other styles. The only problem I had was trying to decide which beer was my favorite – all were outstanding. However, one beer stood out among the rest – hilariously titled “Dad Shoes”. It was a juicy zinger, and I ended up ordering a six-pack to take back home.

Their cuisine featured BBQ “with a twist”- with items like street corn, smash burgers, and Asian pulled pork on the menu. While we enjoyed our beer, we played endless games of tic-tac-toe, as well as a competitive bag-toss game outside.

It was the perfect way to round out our day.

Downtown Scoops in Alpena
Downtown Scoops is a must-visit for delicious ice cream novelties! | photo by Kristi Murphy

The Charm of Scoops Ice Cream Parlor

The fog from earlier today finally was burning off, so we stopped for an ice cream cone at Scoops Ice Cream Parlor to celebrate! They are known for hand-crafted flavors, malts, and sundaes. 

The building was a charming throwback reminiscent of an old-school soda shop. We sat in the window, watching people walk by while we discussed the best parts of our day. It was a full day of learning the stories of Alpena and uncovering its history.

A large cinnamon roll with orange juice.
The giant grilled cinnamon roll that made Connie’s Cafe famous! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Country Cooking at Connie’s Cafe

The next day we awoke to bright blue skies and finally got a good look at the gorgeous Thunder Bay. The water was sparkling and clear, begging us to see what adventures we could find outside today.

We headed off the beaten path to Connie’s Café, located fifteen minutes away in Ossineke. The restaurant smelled of fresh baked bread and cinnamon – two of my favorite things. 

Connie’s is known for its giant cinnamon rolls that are cut in half and grilled in butter. We obviously ordered one of those, devouring it within minutes. This was homestyle cooking at its best featuring savory bacon, buttered toast, runny eggs, and crispy hashbrowns. 

Our waitress took the time to chat with us, telling us the story of how Connie’s Cafe opened and how recently Connie herself beat cancer. To commemorate this feat, the restaurant features a garden out back with encouraging words and art for those struggling with cancer. It was heartwarming in all the right ways.

A river next to an old tower and trees.
It is hard to believe the beauty of Island Park is steps away from Alpena’s downtown! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Magic Moments on Island Park

Afterward, my husband and son headed back to Traverse City, while my daughter and I headed to Island Park and Wildlife Sanctuary

As Layla and I crossed the bridge and entered the island, we felt as if we entered a different world. The noise of traffic on nearby streets faded away, leaving only birdsong and our footsteps. The creaking trees provided shade, and the varied landscape painted a beautiful portrait. 

The trail led us around the island, with views of the river beyond. It was a short hike, just shy of a mile, with accessibility for all. We went off the main path to get closer to the water, ducking under twisted trunks of old trees.

Island Park provided the perfect place to unwind and disconnect from the outside world – creating the opportunity for true connection and nature noticing.

A girl standing on a dirt trail surrounded by trees.
The tree-lined trails at Misery Bay led us through beautiful meadows. | photo by Kristi Murphy

Small Delights at Misery Bay Nature Preserve

Because it was such a stunning day, we chose Misery Bay Nature Preserve for one last walk before the drive home. Misery Bay connects Thunder Bay to Lake Huron, providing views of the area’s sinkholes and marshland. 

Being a relatively new nature preserve, the signs were pristine and the trail quiet. We meandered through open meadows, marveling at the various shades of green sprouting from all angles.

We made countless stops to gaze at a sprouting purple dwarf lake iris or ponder over a piece of etched birch bark. Collecting memories of this time together gave me one last moment of gratitude for this trip.

A girl on a shoreline looking at water and trees.
Hunting for fossils and searching for sinkholes at Misery Bay! | photo by Kristi Murphy

Marvel at the Sanctuary of the Great Lakes

As we drove home, moments from the weekend flashed through my mind. Alpena offers a fresh perspective on how history shapes the stories we tell, and how every place holds meaning. 

It’s easy to see why Alpena is known as the Sanctuary of Great Lakes; the town is built around Lake Huron’s beauty and revels in the mysteries found beneath its water. I marvel at how it seems the quiet cities can often be the most interesting, and how they always fill my jar with wonder. 

More than anything, I’m left with an overwhelming thankfulness to live in this beautiful, magical state of Michigan that offers adventure around every corner. Go and explore the tranquil and intriguing town of Alpena – you won’t regret it.

Check out Visit Alpena for additional travel resources and recommendations to plan your own trip to this charming region. 

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